If you like the soft look of watercolors, why not try using a color wash on your walls? In addition to a softer color, color washing can accentuate the texture of your plaster or stucco walls. And its so simple that even I, a faux-finish-impaired decorator, can do it
There are two techniques for color wash application: sponge or brush. Each requires a slightly different glaze formula.
Sponge Technique:
Color Wash Glaze: Mix together 1 part latex paint and 6 parts water in a bucket.
1. Mask off (using painters tape) parts of the room which will not receive the wash. Its best to cover the floor with plastic drop cloths (especially if you are as messy as I am).
2. Prime the wall with a low luster latex paint and allow it to dry completely before the next step.
3. Dip the sponge into the color wash glaze and squeeze lightly.
4. Beginning in a lower corner, apply the glaze to the wall in short, overlapping strokes. Change the direction of the strokes frequently. Work on a small portion of the wall at a time (3 foot by 3 foot is a good size).
5. Repeat moving upward until all the wall is covered.
6. Allow to dry completely.
Brush Technique:
Brush Color Wash Glaze: 1 part flat latex paint, 1 part latex paint conditioner (available at your local home improvement center), and 2 parts water. Mix in a bucket.
1. Mask off (using painters tape) parts of the room which will not receive the wash. Its best to cover the floor with plastic drop cloths.
2. Prime the wall with a low luster latex enamel paint and allow it to dry completely before the next step.
3. Allow the paint to dry.
4. Dip a paintbrush in the glaze and remove the excess against the side of the bucket.
5. Apply the paint in a criss-cross pattern.
6. Brush over the surface repeatedly to soften the look of the paint.
7. Wipe excess glaze away, if necessary. (Better get the industrial-sized package of paper towels!)
There you have it! A soft paint look perfect for your newly decorated roomAnd since you have the technique down to a science, why not come and do my family room? Powder room? Closet?
About the author:
Pamela Cole Harris has been a writer and designer for 35 years (Yikes, has it been that long?) Enjoy her tongue-in-cheek approach to inexpensive interior design at: http://www.homeandgardenmakeover.comand http://www.diy-homedecor.com
May 13th, 2008 by admin
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You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm
There is nothing more beautiful than a flowering shrub in full bloom, except maybe a flowering shrub in full bloom that has been trained to grow as a single stem tree. Imagine having a fragrant Viburnum Tree next to your patio or outside your bedroom window, waking up to such a wonderful aroma.
Go to this website to see how I grow Weeping Pussy Willow from cuttings, then train them into single stem trees:
http://www.freeplants.com/weeping-pussy-willow.htm
Don’t confuse what I am about to explain here with the common technique of grafting flowering shrubs on to the tall stem of some sort of rootstock. Grafting is very effective, but not so easy to do. This is much easier. Not only that, when you train the shrub to grow into a single stem tree, you can end up with some very interesting plants.
Training a flowering shrub to grow into a single stem tree is actually pretty simple. The younger the shrub you start with, the easier it is to train. I have a friend who grows thousands of Tree Hydrangeas a year, and this is how he trains them. The variety that he grows for this purpose is P.G. Hydrangea. (hydrangea paniculata grandiflora) This is the one with the huge white snowball blooms.
He starts with rooted cuttings and lines them out in the field about 30″ apart. The first year he allows them to grow untouched as multi-stem shrubs. Being a fast growing shrub, they typically produce 3 to 4 branches that grow to a height of about 3 to 4′ that first season. The following spring he goes into the field, examines each plant and selects the one stem that is the straightest, and is likely to grow straight up from the roots if tied to a stake.
He then clips all of the other branches as close to the main stem as possible. Then he pounds a stake in the ground as close to the main stem as possible, and clips the tip off the single stem that is left. This forces the plant to set lateral buds just below where he clipped the top off, rather than continue growing straight up. These lateral buds will grow into branches that will form the head of the tree. He then ties the stem to the stake.
As it begins to grow, any buds that appear below that top group of buds are picked off to keep the single stem tree form. That’s all there is to it. You can use almost anything as a stake, and just tie the stem to the stake with a piece of cloth. I also anchor plants to stakes with a single wrap of duct tape. I find that if I only wrap the tape once, the sun will dry the glue and the tape will fall off by itself in about 12 months. 1/2″ electrical tubing (conduit) also makes a good stake, and is just a couple of bucks for a 10 foot piece.
You can do the same thing with an older established shrub if you can find one branch that can be tied to a vertical stake. The stem is likely to be crooked and not too smooth because of the wounds from where the branches were removed, but that doesn’t mean that you can not create an interesting plant. Some of the shrubs that make beautiful and unique ornamental trees are many varieties of Viburnums, Burning Bush, Winged Burning Bush, Red and Yellow Twig Dogwoods, Weigelia, Mockorange, Rose of Sharon, and Flowering Almond.
I’m sure there are many more. My favorite shrub to train into a single stem tree is Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick. In shrub form this plant is extremely interesting with its twisted and contorted branches. The new growth is reminiscent of a pig’s tail. Using the same technique as described above I select a single stem, tie it to a stake, and train it to grow as a single stem tree. The effect is totally unique.
Call your local garden stores and ask them if they have a Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick plant. Give it a try, I’m sure you’ll have fun as well as create some very interesting plants for your landscape.
Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter. Article provided by gardening-articles.com
April 29th, 2008 by admin
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(NC)Faced with rising energy bills and an uncomfortable home, Alex Nilsson decided it was time to take action. She turned to the EnerGuide for Houses Program, which was launched in 1998 by Natural Resources Canada’s Office of Energy Efficiency, for help. Three years later, she acknowledges that her $150 investment in an EnerGuide for Houses evaluation was a great way to get started.
An expert energy advisor visited Ms. Nilsson’s 185-square-metre brick home, collected data about its energy-using equipment, insulation and building envelope, and performed a mechanical test to find air leaks. The advisor then used energy-modelling software to assess different upgrades and identify some cost-effective solutions that would suit her budget.
“For me, the best part of the experience was just getting the opportunity to go through the house with the advisor. He had technical knowledge and a lot of experience with older homes,” recalls Ms. Nilsson, whose house was built in 1915. “He was able to spend some time with me discussing what I needed to do in the short and long term, and he explained my best options.”
The advisor left Ms. Nilsson with
a detailed report that prioritized a
number of recommended improvements, including extensive air leakage control and the replacement of many of the home’s old, single-pane windows. He also gave her a label showing that her house scored 40 out of 100 on the EnerGuide for Houses energy efficiency scale, typical for an older, un-renovated home.
After investing about $6,000 in sealing air leaks and installing six new energy-efficient windows, Ms. Nilsson asked the advisor to perform a follow-up evaluation. She was pleased to find that her home now rated 57 out of 100 on the EnerGuide for Houses scale, meaning that it was using a lot less energy and producing fewer greenhouse gases that contribute to climate change.
“The next winter my energy use went down by about 20 percent, but the real bonus was comfort,” Ms. Nilsson says. “I had no idea how much the air leaks were affecting my comfort level. The new windows have made a great difference too. I can actually sit beside the window in February without feeling cold.”
To encourage more people like Ms. Nilsson to use the EnerGuide for Houses service, the Government of Canada recently announced an incentive program that will allow eligible homeowners to recoup some of their investment when they implement recommended improvements. Under the new initiative, energy efficiency improvements like those undertaken by Ms. Nilsson would qualify for an incentive of $801. The incentive is part of Canada’s strategy for implementing the Kyoto Protocol, which calls for significant reductions in greenhouse gas emissions across Canada.
For more information about the incentive program or to locate a licensed EnerGuide for Houses agent in your area, visit energuideforhouses.gc.ca or call 1 800 387-2000 (toll-free) or 995-2943 in the National Capital Region.
- News Canada
About the author:
News Canada
April 24th, 2008 by admin
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Sometimes it seems as though everything is out to thwart your
desire to have that beautiful, healthy, green carpet of lawn.
Despite your efforts it is still patchy, brown and attacked by
weeds. But don’t give up. It may not be too late.
Most gardeners don’t mind the odd weed as long as the lawn still
looks pretty good. However remember that the odd weed in spring
could be a large infestation by midsummer if you don’t deal with
it. If you mow the lawn once a week you will remove most of the
flower stems before they can set seeds. However, many of the
lawn weeds grow flat and do not produce flowers on long stems,
so these will still flower and set seeds no matter how often you
mow. Other methods are needed to treat these weeds. Remember,
the earlier you attack the weeds the better as “One year’s
seeding makes for seven years weeding!”
The best way to keep your lawn looking great is to keep the
grass plants healthy, and then they are less likely to let weeds
and pests take over. So first of all take care of the basic
needs of your lawn.
If a lot of weeds pop up it could mean that your grass is weaker
than it should be. If your lawn is too dry, start with a
thorough watering - to a depth of 200mm is recommended. Deep
watering done less often is better for your lawn grass than if
you water a little and often. It helps it to develop a strong,
deep root system that makes the plants stronger and less
susceptible to drought. Or alternatively, if you have a
persistent problem with a waterlogged lawn you may need to
consider laying drainage for which you should consult a
professional. Feeding your lawn with the appropriate nutrients
will also make the grass stronger.
In spite of trying to make your grass plants as healthy as
possible, you are still sure to get some weeds growing in it.
Weeding is an ongoing process, but shouldn’t take much time once
you establish a healthy lawn. Grass, and especially the modern
mixtures, is very competitive and crowds out most weeds. In a
healthy lawn weeds aren’t usually much to worry about. Simply
pull up any weeds that show up. As you see weeds appearing, dig
them up and you’ll keep your lawn weedless with a minimum of
effort. Practically speaking though, you will only do this if
you have only a few weeds to remove. Constant vigilance is the
key to success with this type of weed control.
If your weed problem is larger, spray individual weeds with a
low-toxicity herbicide. Don’t spray the entire lawn unless you
have weeds throughout it. You will damage, and could kill dry,
dormant or stressed grass if you apply a lawn weeder over the
whole lawn. Lawn weedkillers are powerful chemicals and you
should always follow the manufacturers instructions for
preparation, using, storing and disposing of them. Never use
more than directed or ‘add a bit more just in case’. You should
also identify the sort of grass you have as some types can be
damaged by MCPA and dicamba, which are the active ingredients in
many weedkillers. Be careful not to allow pets or children near
the lawn if you’ve recently sprayed it.
The best way to minimise the amount of chemicals you use is to
spot-treat weeds. Use a pump-action sprayer and walk backwards,
up and down the length of the lawn spraying a shot of chemical
onto each weed. Hold the nozzle as close as you can to the weed
and release with a low pressure to minimise spray drift. It does
take longer to do this way but it is more thorough and better
for the environment. If you tip a bottle of red food colouring
or add some wetting agent into the mix, it is easier to see
where you have already sprayed.
After a couple of weeks you’ll be seeing results. If there are
still a few weeds you’ve missed, dig them out or do the spot
treatment again. Remember if you can kill the weeds before they
flower and seed, you’re a long way towards having a much smaller
problem next spring.
Occasionally you may find a nasty, particularly virulent weed
takes over your lawn in which case you need to find out the
specific treatment for it from your local garden centre. An
example of this is Soliva, also known as lawn burweed, spurweed,
bindii, or onehunga weed. It is low growing, has feathery leaves
and produces seeds with a short spine on them, which stick into
bare feet when you walk on the plants, a particularly unpleasant
experience. Although it is only an annual weed it seeds
profusely, and its method of spreading by sticking to feet is
extremely successful. It requires a targeted weed killer to be
applied at a particular time of the year to be effective against
it.
‘Weed and Feed’ products are not generally recommended. For
instance, the best time for spraying weeds is not generally the
best time for fertilizing your lawn. Also it is unwise to spray
unnecessary herbicide over your whole lawn when only a small
patch may be infected with weeds. One concern with the hose-on
products is spray drifting onto surrounding shrubs. It’s hard to
apply these products just to the lawn. Applying fertilizer,
herbicide and pesticide where and when it is needed is a better
lawn care strategy.
So even if your lawn is less than perfect now, don’t give up.
Follow these tips for getting rid of lawn weeds now, and by this
time next year you may have all your neighbours asking you for
advice!
April 13th, 2008 by admin
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A new study by National City Corp. looked at home values for 299 American cities and compared them to where they “should be” based on a number of economic factors that determine home prices. The results were not encouraging; homes in nearly one third of America were judged to be “extremely overvalued.” That’s the part that’s getting headlines. A complete read of the report shows that things are even worse, as 100 cities in the U.S. have values judged to be too high by 18% or more. What does this mean?
It will come as no surprise to most people that the areas judged to be the most overvalued are in California, Florida, and New York and Massachusetts. Home prices in these states have increased at a rate that far exceeds the increases in salaries in these areas. When homes are priced in a way that is disproportionate to income, they become unaffordable. The mortgage industry has come up with a number of clever solutions to this problem by introducing an ever-increasing number of creative loan products. Interest only mortgages, where buyers only pay interest on the loan, rather than principal, for the first five years of the loan, and Option ARM mortgages, with “teaser” interest rates that can run as low as one percent, have allowed people to purchase homes they otherwise would not be able to afford. Neither one of these dangerous loan types contributes any money to the actual purchase price of the home, leaving their buyers in a precarious position should prices fail to keep rising. The nationwide increase in foreclosure rates suggests that the market is probably peaking.
What does this mean for the average buyer? Home prices in the top 100 markets in the U.S. are overpriced by anywhere between 20% and 70%. Prospective buyers should realize that any home they purchase now will probably not appreciate much more in the near future, and they should finance their purchases with this in mind. Buyers should make certain that they can actually afford the purchase price and that they can afford a mortgage that will reduce the principal of the loan over thirty years. A home purchase with any other terms would have to be considered a risk, since prices are more likely to fall or stay the same in the future than they are to rise. Use some common sense when making a purchase, and all will be well.
©Copyright 2005 by Retro Marketing.
About the Author: Charles Essmeier is the owner of Retro Marketing, a firm devoted to informational Websites, including http://www.homeequityhelp.net, a site devoted to information regarding home equity lending.
Source: www.isnare.com
April 2nd, 2008 by admin
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Ticks can cause serious harm to humans and animals and, therefore, must be removed immediately if found attached to a host. People living within or visiting tick-prone areas need to purchase a handy tick removal tool and other relevant supplies to minimize the chances of tick-borne disease.
Ticks attach themselves to people and pets from grass and shrubs. Therefore, individuals should thoroughly examine themselves, children, and pets after they have been to woody or grassy areas.
Some popular methods of tick removal, such as using a hot match or nail or covering the tick with nail polish, alcohol, or petroleum jelly are not recommended because they increase the possibility of the tick passing on infection to the host.
Ticks should never be touched with bare hands. It is best to wear rubber gloves during tick removal; however, in the absence of gloves, hands can be covered with plastic. Tweezers, blunt forceps, curved-tip forceps, hemostats, tick spoons, tick nooses, tick pliers, or tick sliders can be effectively used for tick removal.
The tick should be slowly removed by grasping its mouth or head. Jerking, crushing, or squeezing of the tick should be avoided. In addition, before using a commercial tick removal tool it is essential to read the instructions carefully. After removal, the attachment site, hands, and tick removal tool must be thoroughly cleaned with soap and water. An antiseptic should then be applied.
The tick must be preserved in a sealed container or bag for a month. Details, such as bite location, date, and patient’s name are to be noted for future reference. If any symptoms of tick-borne disease appear, a medical practitioner should be contacted immediately. Medical help also becomes necessary if the mouthparts of the tick remain embedded in the skin of the host during removal.
To conclude, tick removal is no longer a difficult task due to the variety of tools available. Patience and caution are the only other requirements for efficient tick removal.
Ticks provides detailed information on Ticks, Tick Bites, Deer Ticks, Dog Ticks and more. Ticks is affiliated with Mosquito Magnets.
April 1st, 2008 by admin
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Who says that Christmas lights are just for Christmas trees? In
fact, why should they be limited to just one month of the year?
Renowned designers across the globe are using miniature white
lights-traditionally used only for Christmas time-to create
unique and unforgettable statements in their client’s homes.
But you don’t have to be a designer (or hire one!) to learn how
to use Christmas lights in your home décor. These versatile
decorating tools can be used to create a whimsical look in a
laundry room or bathroom, or a more formal look in your living
or dining room. Take a look at the suggestions below and then
scope out your own home-are there areas that could use a little
“lighting up?”
Your Kitchen
Most kitchens are decorated in order to produce warm, friendly
environments that friends and family can gather in and feel
comfortable and at-home. That’s why they are the perfect
environment for Christmas lights. We’ve all grown up with
Christmas lights on our trees and automatically relate to them
with a feeling of warmth. Try stringing a strand around that
tall plant in the corner or along the bottom of your kitchen
shelves.
Your Dining Room
A dining room is generally more formal, but that doesn’t mean
you can’t use Christmas lights there, too. If you have formal
draperies with a swag try running a line of tiny white lights
along the inside of the swag. It will create a demure lighting
effect that is sure to charm your dinner guests.
Your Bedroom
A bedroom should be decorated with quiet and peacefulness in
mind. Imagine snuggling down under a canopy bed with lights
gently trailing along the rim. If you don’t have a canopy you
could create a “light forest” in the corner of the room. Simply
place an odd number of large potted plants in the corner and
string small Christmas lights around them. You can connect them
all together for a more whimsical look, or string them
separately for a formal design.
Living Room
If you want your living room to speak casualness or even whimsy,
then Christmas lights add a great effect. If you have a
fireplace, consider placing the lights along the mantel, then
decorating it with greenery. If you carefully choose the décor
that you place on top, it won’t look at all Christmasy. For
example, you could place modern statues along the mantel, or
country-style wooden décor.
Your Bathroom
Your bathroom is the perfect location for strands and strands of
Christmas lights. But beware! This decorating idea isn’t for the
faint-at-heart or conservative. Especially if your space is
small, Christmas lights can open up the room by creating an airy
look. Start by stringing the lights around the mirror, and then
along the cabinets. If you’re really daring, create a fabric
wrap-around your stand-alone sink, and then lay a strand of
lights around it.
Garden
Finally, don’t limit Christmas lights to the inside of your
home. If you have a garden in the backyard, what better way to
show it off than to illuminate it with beautiful lighting? Wrap
the trees, large bushes, and walkways with either traditional
white bulbs, or go all out, and use coordinating colored ones as
well. (You’re not just limited to red and greens anymore!)
However you use Christmas lights in your decorating styles, your
home will be sure to stand out above the crowd!
March 21st, 2008 by admin
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Trees for Lawns
In order to be a good tree to grow in a lawn it needs a number of things going for it. In particular a good lawn tree:
1.Should be deciduous, meaning it should loose all of its leaves in the winter. This will let in light in the wintertime, when light levels are lowest. Deciduous trees also do not block any warming winter sunlight from reaching the house. Trees on the south or east sides of any house should always be deciduous, never evergreen.
2.Should have roots that do not creep upward into the lawn where they’ll be hit by lawnmowers. Roots that grow up into the lawn are a real pain, hard to get rid of, and will easily ruin a lawnmower.
3.Should be attractive, or why else even plant it?
4.Should be fairly easy to grow, not too fussy. Always select trees that are know to be disease resistant.
5.Should be able to adapt to the irrigation a lawn will receive. Certain trees grow well in lawns and others, such as oaks, do not. Plant lawn trees that will thrive in a lawn area, even if it is frequently irrigated.
6.Should be a type of tree that will not have a negative allopathic effect on the lawn. For example, eucalyptus or walnut trees produce a substance that kills off other plants below them.
7.Should produce shade that is not too deep. No grass can grow in the deepest shade. Branches on lawn trees should ideally be kept fairly high.
8.Should not produce a lot of allergenic pollen. There’s no point in planting a tree that will make you sick every year.
*Note: No lawn tree will grow well when it is young if the grass is allowed to grow right up to its trunk! I can’t stress this enough. A young tree in a lawn should have an area underneath it that is kept totally grass-free for the first 4-5 years of the tree’s growth. If lawn is permitted to grow right next to the trunk of a young tree, the tree’s growth will almost always be stunted. Even after this period of time it is better to either keep the area immediately under the tree grass-free, or to plant a low-growing groundcover under it.
Trunks of young trees should never be hit with weedwackers. String- trimmers ruin the tender bark of many young lawn trees, and then stunt their subsequent growth. Keep a clean area a minimum of 3′wide under any new lawn tree.
Even though a lawn has shallow roots and there is little point in watering lawns much deeper than a foot, trees will develop deep roots. To make sure your new tree grows those deep, drought resistant roots, give it a really good soaking once a month from spring until fall. Just put a garden hose near the base of the tree, turn it on low, and let it soak for a long time.
Watch mulch around the trunks of young trees! Mulching trees is a good idea but keep the mulch a few inches away from the actual trunk of the young tree. In the wintertime, especially where there is snow cover, it is a darn good idea to put a wrap of inch mesh chicken wire around the trunk, to keep mice and rabbits from eating the tender young bark. Many a new tree is killed because of wintertime damage to the trunk from rodents.
If you live in an area where the winter temperatures get below zero F, it is a good idea to paint the trunks of new lawn trees white. The white paint will reflect the winter sun, and will keep the sap from warming up and starting to flow in the middle of winter. Painted trees are much less likely to get “winter sun scald,” which is what they call it when the bark cracks and splits open, usually on the south side of the trunk. Use indoor grade white latex paint for this, and it is perfectly okay too, to paint some of the larger branches. This painting can be repeated each fall with good effect until the tree is about 7-8 years old. As the trees mature their bark will thicken and toughen up, and will naturally be more resistant to freezing and the winter sun.
Make sure to fertilize the new trees twice each season. Use a fertilizer high in N, nitrogen, in the springtime, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in potassium in the fall. Lawn grass that grows under trees may well need a bit of extra fertilizer through the growing season, as the tree roots will absorb much of the lawn fertilizer as well.
There are devices with long, hollow spikes on them that screw on the end of a hose. You put the fertilizer for the tree in these contraptions, shove the spike down deep into the tree’s root zone, and turn on the hose. This is a good way to fertilize lawn trees.
Existing trees and planting new lawns
Many a nice lawn tree has been killed when the owner decides to plant a new lawn, and hauls in extra topsoil to spread. If you cover the roots of a tree with several inches of additional soil, you may easily smother the tree roots, killing the tree. If the soil around an existing tree needs to be raised, then you need to build a “tree well,” an area around the tree, at least four feet wide, where the original soil level is maintained. This is especially important with oak trees, which will quickly die if the soil level is raised right up to the trunk.
Manure and lawn trees
Never put manure right up to the trunk of a lawn tree. Fresh manure in particular is especially toxic to young trees. I have seen some pretty nice, large trees killed when their owners mulched them with a thick layer of supposedly “well-cured” horse manure. Even with compost, don’t place it right next to the trunk of the tree!
Twenty-five Recommended Trees for your Lawn
1.Red Maple ‘Autumn Glory’: Zones 3-9. a large, rounded, handsome female, pollen-free tree, loses its leaves, easy to grow in bluegrass lawns. Great fall color.
2.Red maple ”October Glory’: Zones 3-9 a female, pollen-free tree, does especially well in lawns and does not cast a deep lawn killing shade.
3.Red maple ‘Bowhall,’ Acer rubrum ‘Bowhall,’ is an attractive, pollen-free deciduous female tree, with excellent fall color. It grows narrowly upright and is a good lawn tree for smaller yards. Shade is not dense.
4.Crabapple ‘Molten Lava,’ Malus species, Zones 4-9. A smaller, very pretty, flowering crabapple tree, to 10′ tall, with great flowers in spring and small red fruits in fall. Does fine in well-drained lawns, and is an especially disease resistant tree.
5.Crabapple ‘Dolgo, Malus ‘dolgo,’ Zones 3-9, Pink buds open to fragrant, white flowers in late spring. Glossy, dark green foliage turns yellow in the fall and has good disease resistance. Large, almost florescent, bright red fruit ripening in early summer is excellent for crabapple jelly. A hardy tree with a spreading, upright and open habit. Does well in bluegrass lawns.
6.Crabapple ‘Red Splendour.’ Malus species, Zones 3-8. Greenish-red leaves with rose-pink flowers. Small red fruit stays on the tree well in to the winter. Good resistance to disease. An upright growing smaller crabapple tree, good in lawns.
7.Crabapple ‘Snowcloud,’ Zones 4-8, profuse double white flowers, mostly pollen-free and fruitless, bright green leaves, smaller tree, to 20 feet tall. Good in lawns.
8.Crabapple ‘Sugar Tyme,’ Pale pink buds open to fragrant, showy white blossoms that cover the tree in spring. A bounty of small, persistent, bright red fruit are produced in the fall and attract birds. This vigorous tree has crisp, dark green leaves and an upright, oval habit. One of the most disease resistant flowering crabapples. Good in lawns. To 20 feet tall.
9.Flowering plum: Prunus species, zones 4-10, a pretty, easy to grow tree, loses its leaves in fall, flowers in the spring, grows fast and likes frequent irrigations, as in a lawn. Shade is not dense.
10.Apricot trees, Prunus species, Zones 4-10: attractive, loses its leaves in fall, easy to grow in western areas, blossoms smell great, and the fruit is good. Should be pruned so that it is not difficult to mow under. Does not cast a dense shade. Good fall color too.
11.Fuyu persimmon trees, Diospyros kaki, Zones 4-10: slow growing, very attractive bark and leaves, shade not dense, fruit is beautiful, sweet and excellent, tree is female and pollen-free. Incredible fall color.
12.Pineapple Guava tree, Feijoa sellowiana, Zones 8-10, small evergreen tree. Best grown as a multi-trunked tree, to 18′ tall, gray-green attractive leaves, white-red flowers, sweet green fruit. With age the tree becomes more and more attractive, the bark ever more interesting.
13.Honeylocust trees, Gleditsia triacanthos, all Zones, a nice, medium-sized shade tree. Loses its leaves in fall, grows well in lawns, and does not cast a deep grass killing type of shade.
14.Variegated Box Elder, Acer negundo ‘Variegata’, an attractive, smaller three-leafed maple tree, with beautiful variegated green and white leaves. Deciduous, female and pollen-free, easy to grow, and does well in lawns. Shade not dense.
15.Fringe tree, Chionanthus virginicus, Zones 5-10. If you can find one that has small black fruits on it, then it is a pollen-free female tree, a much desired lawn tree. Roots go down and stay down, foliage is very attractive, leaves lost in winter, attractive, lightly fragrant bright white flowers, grows well in lawns. Shade not dense.
16.Sourwood tree, Nyssa sylvatica, Zones 4-9. A small to medium-sized lawn tree, deciduous, excellent fall color. Female sourwood trees are pollen free; look for the exceptional cultivar called ‘Miss Scarlet,’ which has no pollen, terrific red fall color, and has attractive small ornamental blue fruit. These trees thrive in acid soils and will not do well with alkaline soil.
17.Japanese Raisin Tree, Hovenia dulcis, Zones 8`-10. The female trees have small, sweet, raisin-like fruit and are pollen-free. Raisin trees have beautiful leaves, are deciduous, grow well in lawns, and do not cast a deep shade.
18.Hardy Rubber Tree, Eucommia ulmoides, best in zones 5-7, is a large shade tree that does not cast deep shade. If you can find a fruiting tree, it will be female and pollen-free too. Roots stay down and tree grows well in bluegrass lawns.
19.Pomegranate tree, Punica granatum, Zones 7-10, makes a beautiful, small lawn tree if grown as either a single-trunked tree, or as a three-trunked tree. Pomegranate thrives where summer heat is high. Loses its leaves in fall, bright yellow fall color, shade not dense, attractive orange flowers and red fruit. Will grow well in a fescue, Bermudagrass, or St Augustine lawn.
20.Bougainvillea, Zones 9-10. Not normally thought of as a tree at all, a bougainvillea can easily be trained into an unusual and quite beautiful small lawn tree. The best way to do this is to pound a strong 8′ metal stake, several feet deep into the ground, and then plant three one-gallon bougainvillea plants around the stake. Trim the plants back to one or two of the longest, most vigorous branches, and weave these up the stake. It takes about a year to develop this into a tree form. Keep the trunk leaf-free and shear the top several times a year for a lollypop shape. Best cultivars for this are ‘San Diego Red’ or the variegated ‘Raspberry Ice’ bougainvillea. There are some fantastic bougainvillea trees at Disneyland.
21.Quaking Aspen, ‘Pendula,’ Populus tremuloides ‘Pendula’ grows in all Zones. This is a medium-sized, pollen-free, female, weeping aspen tree, very attractive, good fall color, easy to grow, and is fast growing. Doesn’t cast a deep shade and grows well in most lawns.
22. Black Poplar, ‘Theves’ Poplar, Populus nigra ‘Afghanica’ or P. n. ‘thevestina’ is an attractive, medium-sized, tall, narrowly upright shade tree, winter hardy in all zones. ‘Theves’ Poplar is female, pollen-free, and has bright yellow fall color. Good in lawns where a narrow tree is needed.
23.’Noreaster’ Poplar, Populus ‘Noreaster’ is a good, larger shade tree for lawns. ‘Noreaster’ is a sterile female tree, so no seeds and no pollen. Does well in most bluegrass lawns and is winter hardy in even the coldest zones.
24.Japanese Paper Mulberry trees, Broussonetia kazinoki, are separate sexed and if you can find a fruiting tree, it will be pollen-free. These do not cast deep shade like most of the other mulberry species and will thrive in lawns in most cool areas. Winter hardy zones in 5-9.
Paperbark maple, Acer griseum, Zones 4-8. This small to medium-sized maple tree has exceptionally beautiful bark and is totally handsome at all times of the year. Paperbark maple doesn’t cast a deep shade and lawn will grow quite well underneath it. Best in soils that are well drained and slightly acidic.
About the Author
Thomas Ogren is the author of Allergy-Free Gardening, Ten Speed Press. Tom does consulting work on for the USDA, county asthma coalitions, and the American Lung Associations. He has appeared on CBS, HGTV and The Discovery Channel. His book, Safe Sex in the Garden, was published 2003. In 2004 Time Warner Books published his latest: What the Experts May NOT Tell You About: Growing the Perfect Lawn. His website: www.allergyfree-gardening.com
March 16th, 2008 by admin
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